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If you have tired of Cambodia’s history and fancy some relaxation time on a tropical island paradise, look no further than Koh Rong Samleom. It is just a few hours’ drive from Phomn Penh.

Once you have left the busy, dirty port of Sihanokville behind, expect to see a long, white sandy beach with jungle stretching beyond it, lapped by a turquoise blue sea.

Having only been open to tourists for the past 4 years, this is a recently discovered jewel. Saracen Bay, the main hub of the island, is scattered with beach huts, as Cambodian law has prevented any long-term infrastructure. There is plenty to enjoy during the day, whether it’s relaxing in a hammock strung up in the water, diving, kayaking or trekking across the island. But it is after the sun goes down, and the day visitors from Sihanoukville return to the mainland, that Koh Rong Samleom unveils its biggest treasure.

Cambodian jewel

The island’s waters are crystal clear and are home to a wide variety of sea creatures. This includes the deceivingly average plankton. At night, the plankton glow and sparkle when disturbed in the water, and lights up around your swimming body. It is like floating in a sky full of stars. The glitter lighting up around you in a pitch-black sea will be an amazing, unforgettable experience.

How to get there

From Kampot, it is a cramped 2 hour minibus ride to Sihanoukville ($23 including boat). It is 6 hour public bus from Phnom Penh ($7). From Sihanoukville port it is about $20 for a return boat ticket. The boat takes 45 minutes approx. Boat tickets can be bought from any tourist office in Sihanoukville.

What to eat
  • Beef Lok Lak – a thick beef stew with rice and a delicious sauce of Kampot black pepper, lime juice and salt.
  • Chicken Amok – a Thai style chicken and coconut curry with rice. Fish Amok is equally delicious.
  • Cha houy tuk – a sweet dessert of shaved ice, jelly and a palm sugar syrup. Diabetics be warned!

The Beach Island Resort on Saracen Bay have by far the most generous servings considering you are paying island prices; Sunnys has the cheapest beer and water.

What to do
  • Swim in the calm, turquoise waters of Saracen Bay.
  • Walk through the monkey and toucan filled jungle to Sunset beach, where you can swim in the waves or relax on the swing. Bring a torch if you plan to stay for sunset as the jungle is too dark and dense to find your way back once the sun goes down!
  • Walk to the North of Saracen Bay to the waterfall (be careful when climbing up as it can be very slippery).
  • Hire a kayak for $5 an hour and paddle round the North headland to the coral reef for some snorkelling and lunch at the Mad Monkey hostel.
  • Trek to the Lighthouse on the South of the island. Walking shoes not sandals highly recommended.
Where to stay

Cambodian jewel

The South of Saracen Bay houses the more luxurious resorts; the North has more backpacker digs but also tends to accommodate the visiting day tourists.

Flashpacker

Sunnys hostel is a tiny set-up right on the beach. Behind are a few beach huts for $15 a night. (Double ensuite).

The Island Beach Resort has small beach huts with mosquito nets for $21 and communal bathrooms. You can ask them to turn off the pier lights at night so you can make the most of the glowing plankton.

Backpacker

Rainbow Lodge offers a dorm bed for $7.50 a night including breakfast. They also offer various tours of the island. This is a good social hub for travellers and are very welcoming even if you aren’t staying there.

Koh Rong Samleom is unlike its sister party island of Koh Rong: it is purely pedestrian and undeveloped. Experience this island’s innocence while it still lasts.


About the author
Cambodian jewel

John and Harriet are both from the United Kingdom. This year, they both gave up their jobs to pursue a dream of travelling the world for at least one year with great possibility to extend it for longer. They are currently exploring the hidden gems of South East Asia, heading to Australia, New Zealand, Fiji and reaching Central America afterwards. Even though London is their base, they have no intention to come back soon.

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